Credit selosse-lesavizes.com
“Anselme Selosse is one of the pivotal figures in the modern history of Champagne. Selosse’s meticulous attention to detail in the vineyards and bold wines inspired a whole generation of younger growers, some of whom spent time working alongside him, and others who were captivated by a vision of Champagne as a wine that is, first and foremost, born in the vineyard.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous
If we had to choose one winemaker who in recent years has taken the wine-world by storm, that would have to be Anselme Selosse of the eponymous domaine Jacques Selosse. Named "France's best winemaker" in every category by Gault-Millau in 1994, and one of Champagne's top 5 producers by Andrew Jefford in The New France, Anselme's success has been transformational for this region, with critics worldwide singing praises of his profound influence on how Champagne is crafted today
Selosse came of age in the 1970s when Champagne's reputation rested more on industrial-scale production and global brands rather than an emphasis on terroir and small-scale viticulture. But through his studies in Burgundy, he discovered a new world focused on individual vineyard expressions and low-intervention winemaking, and in 1974 returned to his family's vineyards in Avize determined to implement new philosophies. He drastically reduced yields and transitioned the vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming, understanding that profound Champagne required exceptional base wines from grand cru sites, and sought to allow each parcel to fully express itself.
In the cellar, Selosse defies convention. Through native yeast fermentations in oak and an aversion to excessive sulfur, his base wines develop remarkable complexity on their lees before bottling with minimal dosage. The results are wines with towering quality yet an elusive flavor profile that is impossible to imitate.
Selosse's benchmark cuvées really showcase his vision. Initial offers approachable complexity while Version Originale shows intensity even without dosage. But it's the single-vineyard Lieux-Dits series, produced in a solera-style, that truly illustrate Champagne's incredible diversity of terroir. Tasting wines like Les Carelles, La Côte Faron and Le Bout du Clos side by side is a revelation.
Perhaps Selosse's most profound creation is Substance, a solera begun in 1987 capturing the pure essence of Avize in a single bottle. With its ethereal balance and harmony, it's easy to understand why critics call it a work of art. Through Substance and his other wines, Selosse continues pushing the boundaries of what's possible from Champagne's finest crus.
While Anselme has now passed the reins to his equally talented son Guillaume, Jacques Selosse will surely remain synonymous with attainable perfection and a philosophy that has helped define the region's future. Their wines are a must for any lover of expressive, terroir-driven sparkling wine.
Anselme (left) and son Guillaume Selosse (right). Credit La Revue du Vin de France
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